There are several techniques, including pin-by-pin soldering by a fine tip tool and a homemade reflow, but I would recommend you the following one:
Get a decent soldering tool with some "normal" tip. Position the part carefully (especially noting the orientation - it's a pain when you finally got it soldered and then find out that it is the othey way round...). Fix it by heating pins on two opposite corner - the solder from the HAL layer is enough to hold it, yu don't need to add more - but you can if you want. Don't care if you soldered two or more pins even if you happene to solder them together.
Now get A LOT OF good solder flux and put it all around the pins. I stress it again: you need EXCESS flux, several times more than you admit at first. Of course the flux needs to be of non-conductive residual type. Once again - a lot of it - it's the key to success.
Now get the solder gun/stick and put a ball of solder on one end of a row of pins. Don't be afraid to put enough solder. Now daw the tip along the row of pins - the ball will follow the tip. Add more flux and/or solder, if necessary. At the last 3-5 pins (and sometimes in the middle, too, if you did not master the process yet), you will need to remove the excess solder using - sorry, I don't know how it's in english - fine copper wires wound together.
Finally, wash away the remainder of the flux. Done.
It is highly recommended that the PCB has a non-soldering mask. Although it can be "made home", it is certainly an advanced process, so for first experiments better pay the higher price of professionally made PCBs (not to say that the fine pitch of xSOP and xQFP packages are not quite what one can see on typical homemade PCBs, either). It can be done without the mask, but the success depends highly on type of PCB base material and its processing - I don;t recommed for first ttry at all
But what I highly recommend is a lot of practising - get an old, faulty PC motherbard or expansion card, remove the parts (e.g. carefully heating the whole board - e.g. using a common iron) clean it, then try to resolder them.

And two tools come handy: the hot air "gun", and - more importantly - a good fast continuity tester with sharp pointed probes.

Have a loads of fun!

Jan Waclawek