We usually also put a soft ferrite in series with Vcc as close as possible to pin 40 of the MCU, with a dedicated filter cap between it and the MCU. On a 2-layer board this is sometimes the only way to control EMI.(Blast that 20-40 ground/power arrangement).

I also agree with rerranging the capacitor location next to each crystal pin; and grounding the capacitors only to pin 20 and not to the plane (might be difficult depending on your tools.) Ground-fill under the crystal might improve emissions. If you do ground-fill, it needs to be properly anchored.

Also I agree that you should use 13 mil traces for all signals and use the extra space for improving power and ground.

I don't know what the signals to the bottom connector are; but it can't be good to encircle the crystal with them. It'll couple noise to whatever you connect. Run them both on the same side of the crystal. And put a shield trace between the crystal signals and those I/O. If they go any distance, consider an R/C filter (47R and 0.001 uF depending on their speed).

regards,
Mike